Well, the season is coming upon us…”The flea and Tick Invasion”
Spring, the start of the flea and tick problem. Fleas are more than a irritation for cats and dogs. They are the leading cause of skin problems. Most of my clients, have now learnt that they don’t need lotions and potions from the vet, which are costly as well, just keeping their eyes open for fleas and ticks, and treating them responsibly, has helped in skin condition on their pets. If it is not in your budget, a simple rinse available from the pet shop will keep them at bay, if washed every week or so.
Frontline (NOT FOR USE ON RABBITS) is the best way, and safest to deal with fleas, every 2 weeks, when the fleas are active, and every month when you notice they have left the dog. Although, you don’t have to keep putting it on your dog every month, as they will become immune to it, if used for long periods. I recommend to use it to solve the problem, when the problem is there. Keep in mind, the fleas can live up to 4 months without a blood meal. The eggs fall off the host animal, and can survive in carpets, dirt etc, living on crumbs, human skin cells etc.
This is an example of a “Bush Tick”
Common throughout Queensland, the bush tick is the less dangerous of the 2 main ticks we find on our pets. Keeping an eye and hands on your dog is the best way to control them, concentrating on the ears, face, legs and belly. To remove them is quite simple. With a pointed pair of tweezers, and as close to the attachment point as possible, use slow, steady traction, and pull STRAIGHT OUT from the skin. DO NOT twist, or squeeze the tick, as this will make it inject more saliva into the skin, which is dangerous. If you feel this has happened, see your vet.
As we have all been told in the past, that ticks have heads that burrow, I can put your mind at ease. They are a body, with jaws at the front. If these jaws break off and are still on the skin, they can be removed just like a splinter. After wash with gentle soap and water, and apply a antibacterial cream, to avoid infection.
THE PARALYSIS TICK
My enemy, the paralysis tick. The same rules apply for this horrible creature. IMPORTANT, I cannot say this enough, do NOT SQUEEZE!!! As this will lead to more of the ticks saliva being injected into your pet. Simply pull it straight off the skin at the nearest to the attachment point, with a pointed pair of tweezers, not twisting. Same as the bush tick.
Once off the animal, place the tick(s) into a jar of alcohol (eg. metho), in case of future illness. As the tick may have already injected the saliva into the animal. Signs of paralysis tick include:
*weakness in back legs. Walking along then sitting suddenly.
*Fatigue (laziness)
*Loss in appetite
*vomiting
*Excessive breathing and panting, even grunting noises.
Even when you find a tick and remove it, your pet isn’t out of the woods. There’s a very good chance the tick could have left a residue of poison under the skin which will then be slowly absorbed. You should keep an eye on him or her for the next two to four days, keeping it cool and calm while avoiding excitement and exercise. Also, do not offer your pet either food or water because its ability to swallow may be impaired. If at any point the signs worsen, CONTACT YOUR VET.
If you do find 1 tick, there is most likely to be more.
They can range in size from a sesame seed size, to a finger nail size (engorged/full)
AT ANY SIGNS OF PARALYSIS IMMEDIATELY TAKE THEM TO THE VET.
The sooner treated, the better for the pet. I always tell my customers, if one product isn’t working, try a new one. And if in doubt, talk to your vet. There is no 100% preventative for fleas and ticks. The best weapon against them is your own eyes, and feel all over your pet, feeling for lumps on the skin. The sooner discovered, the better for your animal.
I hope this has helped in your fight against fleas and ticks
Jeanette